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The Plain Cheese Slice _Critics’ Pick_ 99¢ Fresh Pizza _151 E. 43rd St._ Relatively light and crisp, with a garlic-powder nose and visible flecks of oregano. The flat lip has a vaguely
greasy, fried flavor, but the balance is good, the components integrated, and sag nonexistent. The winner—despite a stealthily applied sales tax that edges the price up to $1.07. 2 BROS.
PIZZA _32 St. Marks Pl._ Doughy, saucy, and so overloaded with cheese it suffers from chronic droop syndrome. The lip is thick and somewhat detached, like deep-dish or pan pizza, and the
overall flavor is cafeteria school lunch. On the plus side, it is more filling. The Xinjiang Lamb Skewer MANHATTAN CHINATOWN CART _Forsyth St. at Division St._ Smaller chunks of meat, a
modest dusting of spice, and an overall lambier flavor. All in all, a nice snack for a Chinatown stroll. _Critics’ Pick_ Flushing Chinatown Cart _41st Ave., E. of Main St._ Meatier, smokier,
and spicier, this skewer dominates. But then again, you have to schlep to Flushing for it. Chive-and-Pork Fried Dumplings VANESSA’S DUMPLING HOUSE _118A Eldridge St._ After a recent
renovation, Vanessa’s dropped from five to four for a dollar, brazenly deviating from the going rate. But what you lose in volume, you gain in a superb contrast of textures: the crisp
chewiness of the golden-seared side versus its soft, quasi-tender counterpart. _Critics’ Pick_ Prosperity Dumpling _46 Eldridge St._ A five-minute wait guaranteed freshness, and the plump,
irregularly shaped beauties have the tenderest wrapper and a loosely packed, juicy filling. The crisp side could be crisper, but sheer quantity and thus better value nudge the dark horse
Prosperity into the winner’s seat. FRIED DUMPLING _99 Allen St._ Oh, how the mighty have fallen. Our skinny specimens, retrieved from a warmer, tasted tired and wan, with little juice to
speak of. Fresh from the pan, they might fare better, but why leave it up to chance?